Quote Originally Posted by techniker View Post
The xenon setting tells the SAM module to send full power (55w) to the headlights when they are on.

Without the xenon=present setting, during daytime with DRL (Daytime Running Lights) the SAM uses PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) at 60-70% duty cycle to power your headlights which is only about 30-35w of power. This way the halogen lights are on during the day, but not full power. You'll notice that cars with halogens and DRL have headlights on during the day but they are a bit dimmer than at night. They do this to keep the lights cooler and prevent them from burning out as quick. At night, the SAM send the full 55w to the lights.

The ECMs (error canceller modules / anti-flicker modules) which are basically just a capacitor & choke filter are only required during daytime when DRL are on. They smoothen out the power pulses so the HID ballast gets a steadier stream of power. Pulsing power to any ballast will kill them. Even with ECMs, your ballasts will eventually die. This is because they are just barely receiving enough power to supply the 35w HID's. This puts stress on the electronics inside the ballast, mainly the voltage regulators.

Your ballasts will work fine with the ECMs for a while, but later on you'll notice flickering as cold HID's are warming up and eventually you'll start hearing ticking inside the ballast along with flickering of the lights. The internal arcing is a sign your ballast will die fairly soon. They cost about $30-60 each. The shitty slim ones usually cost around $30-35 where the larger higher quality ones with built-in transformers are $50+ each.

How does one go about getting the xenon setting changed without visiting the stealership? I am in dire need of fixing a bad case of HID flicker and die.
Anyone with star in south Scarborough / pickering?